The Salt Path book: Beautiful locations on the South West Coast Path

The film adaptation of Raynor Winn’s celebrated memoir, The Salt Path, is due for release on 25 April this year. The Salt Path book, Winn’s debut, is a memoir detailing her and her husband Moth’s journey along the South West Coast Path. The unplanned expedition takes place after they are made homeless and follows a terminal diagnosis for Moth.

The Salt Path book, is rich with vivid depictions of the coastal landscapes along the South West Coast Path. The couple pass through small villages and long stretches of wild and rugged terrain, and take solace in the beauty and interactions they experience along the way.

The locations provide both challenges and moments of awe as Raynor and Moth navigate their way along the path. We showcase some of the locations mentioned in the Salt Path book below, some of which will feature as filming locations.

Coastal holiday cottages in the South West

Skip to:

The Salt Path film FAQs

Minehead, Somerset – the journey begins

‘And we really didn’t have anything better to do at half past three on a Thursday afternoon than to start a 630-mile walk.’

Raynor and Moth have lost their home. Moth has been diagnosed with a rare and terminal degenerative illness. Homeless, penniless and exhausted, with nowhere else to be, and nothing else to do, they decide to walk the South West Coast Path.

In the Salt Path book, their journey begins at the starting point of the South West Coast Path – Minehead, in Somerset.

The beautiful seaside town of Minehead bustles with visitors in the warmer months. A lively, cheerful atmosphere permeates the colourful bucket and spade shops and pleasant beachfront promenade.

The coast path leading out of here means business, with steep sections along some of the highest cliffs in England, rising to a dizzying height of 250 metres. It’s a challenging start, but a rewarding one.

Minehead holiday cottages

Porlock, Somerset – the going gets tough

‘We crossed the marshlands, where the sea had broken through the shingle ridge and turned the farmland into salt marsh. The skeletons of white, salt-burnt trees stark against the grey sky.’

As Raynor and Moth continue through Exmoor, they are hit by the reality of the steep terrain, and the weight of the packs containing all their worldly belongings.

Along the Porlock Weir to Lynmouth section of the South West Coast Path, the going is, indeed, hard. But efforts are rewarded by the spectacular views afforded from the dramatic cliffs, while wooded stretches, waterfalls and fields add variation to the walk.

Tiny Porlock is a village peppered with pretty buildings, independent businesses and charming eateries – temptations which are sure to distract ramblers from the call of the path. The coastal enclave of Porlock Weir is also a haven for walkers with a smattering of pubs and shops, and even an oyster kitchen: Porlock Bay Oysters.

Porlock holiday cottages

Lynton and Lynmouth, Devon – the edge of the world

‘Out of Lynton, the path narrowed to the edge of the hillside, until it became a right-angle bend on a cliff edge.’

The twin Exmoor towns of Lynton and Lynmouth in North Devon provide a brief respite for the couple in The Salt Path, though an unfortunate altercation with a dog causes Raynor to drop some much-needed coins.

Lynmouth, at the foot of the cliffs, is connected by a funicular railway to Lynton at the top. Spread between both are a plethora of intriguing shops and inviting eateries. The coast path out of here runs a vertiginous line along the jaw-droppingly steep cliffs of the Valley of Rocks.

Plucky goats ignore the precipitous drop as they graze right at the edge – a sight which captivates Raynor in the book. Expect The Salt Path film to showcase the spectacular scenery here. No special effects are necessary; this coastline is superlative.

Lynton and Lynmouth holiday cottages

Combe Martin, Devon – a beautiful cove

‘Down, down, down into Combe Martin, a pretty little Devon village on the beach, with supposedly the longest village street in the country, winding 2 miles inland up the narrow valley.’

In The Salt Path book, Raynor and Moth are looking for a cash machine in Combe Martin when Moth is mistaken for the renowned poet, Simon Armitage. Beyond the village, the walk takes them through a campsite, where they afford themselves a stop for the night with the little money they are rationing.

Combe Martin is on the edge of Exmoor National Park and has a picturesque beach, hugged by tree-topped rocks, at the foot of which rock pools are revealed at low tide. From the village, there are some fabulous walks, including up Little Hangman and Great Hangman Hills, from which incredible views can be seen.

Further along the coast, Damien Hirst’s divisive statue, Verity, stands proud on Ilfracombe Harbour, while further still, Woolacombe tempts visitors with its vast sandy beach and top surfing conditions.

Combe Martin holiday cottages

Hartland Point, Devon – a geologist’s delight

‘The Hartland Point cliffs are carved out in sandstone ribs that rise up into chevron-shaped rock folds. A movement millennia old, still visible, still alive beneath our feet.’

The wild scenery, jagged rocks and crashing seas light a fire in the couples’ bellies – ‘alive, we were alive’. The coastline is exposed to the full force of the Atlantic and the weather. Raynor and Moth experience the scouring heat of the sun on the exposed headlands as they press onwards into Cornwall.

Here, they shower under a waterfall, listen to the cricket on their radio, and swim in the sea under the moonlight. This part of The Salt Path book is heavy with emotion – the finality of Moth’s illness, but also the capacity of nature to act as a tonic.

At 99m high, Hartland Point is a striking rocky outcrop, with a lighthouse gracing the tip of the peninsula as it drops down to the sea. The walk between Hartland Point and Hartland Quay includes steep ups and downs, and is a stretch with a history of smuggling and trade, shipwrecks and heroism. Learn more at the Hartland Quay Museum, followed by a drink and lunch in the pub.

Hartland holiday cottages

Tintagel, Cornwall – the stuff of legend

“I knew then that I was one with everything, the worms in the soil, clouds in the sky; I was part of it all.”

The couple reach the legendary home of King Arthur, where Raynor recovers from an illness. She reflects on her connection to nature and the land. Further on, she ponders on the location of an ancient fort, declaring it would have been a better spot for King Arthur to have built his castle.

Tintagel Castle is the star attraction of this little coastal village, where a spectacular footbridge crosses to an island, also steeped in myth and legend. At sea level, at low tide, Merlin’s Cave can be discovered.

The next part of The Salt Path book takes the couple into Port Isaac, renowned for its connection to Doc Martin – an association that is remarked upon in the book. This bustling village is awash with eateries and boasts a pretty harbour.

Tintagel holiday cottages

St Ives, Cornwall – an artist’s haven

“We got off [the bus] in St Ives, an hour before dark, on the wrong side of town from an open headland. It didn’t matter; nothing mattered. Moth still filled the air next to me and we were free, living the life.”

By this stage, Raynor and Morth are more weathered and experienced. They are captivated by the beauty of St Ives, and dazzled by the array of food, and trinket shops on offer.

A tarot reader offers them a free reading and predicts a long life for them both. Raynor’s pasty gets stolen from her hand by a seagull. Moth tries his hand at busking by doing a reading of Beowulf in the street. They use the money to buy food, and life feels a little brighter.

Whether the astounding scenery of St Ives features in the film remains to be seen, but we hope to catch at least a glimpse of the bustling harbour, the pristine white beaches, and the narrow and welcoming streets.

Studded with galleries featuring work by artists from Barbara Hepworth to the local potter down the road, St Ives is a hot pot for the arts. And no artistic tour would be complete without a visit to the Tate St Ives.

St Ives holiday cottages

Land’s End, Cornwall – the westernmost point of mainland UK

“The end of the land. The start and end of epic journeys.”

In The Salt Path, Raynor and Moth tell anyone who questions them en route that they are heading to Land’s End. It marks a point beyond which they’re not sure what they’ll do, until they get there. When they do arrive, they just carry on.

Land’s End is a curious attraction – a place once so natural, it’s now a visitor hotspot, with an eclectic mix of attractions, eateries and shops. Its famous signpost features in many a photograph – even Raynor and Moth snapped a bedraggled photo as the rain poured down.

Around Land’s End, there’s plenty more to appreciate, though. The beautiful, picture-postcard scenery of glorious Sennen Cove and the astounding landscapes of the South West Coast Path itself. Further along is the stunning Minack Theatre in Porthcurno, where a stranger buys Raynor and Moth a ticket to an opera: Gilbert and Sullivan’s Iolanthe.

Land's End holiday cottages

The Lizard Peninsula, Cornwall – a wildlife utopia

‘I could stand in the wind, and I was the wind, the rain, the sea; it was all me, and I was nothing within it. The core of me wasn’t lost. Translucent, elusive, but there and growing stronger with every headland.’

Raynor and Moth reach the Lizard Peninsula at the end of October, when the nights are cooler and the weather is becoming more inclement. They still find beauty in the natural landscape, delighting in the flora and fauna of the Lizard National Nature Reserve, spotting dolphins and catching a small ferry at idyllic Gillian Creek.

The Lizard Peninsula is rich with wildlife, supported by its unique geology and wild weather coming in off the Atlantic. Cornish heather is native and rare, occupying the area along with some 600 other species of flowering plants.

Alluring communities, built up around fishing and quarrying, stud the coast – Porthallow, Coverack, Cadgwith – all offering a welcoming pitstop for walkers. Kynance Cove with its turquoise water, rock stacks and white sand is a beautiful spot for a beach day.

Lizard holiday cottages

Old Harry Rocks, Dorset – the end becomes a new beginning

‘My feet refound the short, wind-cropped grass, the sun, the wind, the salt on my lips, the familiarity of the unknown soothing the way, the magnetic pull of the path drawing me onward.’ 

Upon reaching Polruan in Cornwall, Raynor and Moth take up the offer of a friend to live in her shed in the Midlands over winter, while converting it into a cottage in return. In July, they pick up the South West Coast Path again, but this time, in reverse, starting at South Haven Point in Swanage.

Walking along the Jurassic Coast that starts in Dorset at Old Harry Rocks, the couple find their rhythm again. They watch red deer grazing near Dancing Ledge, spot a badger on the path at dusk, and see climbers at Kimmeridge, remembering back to their own climbing days.

The much-photographed chalk rock formations of Old Harry Rocks are one of the South Coast’s most famous landmarks. Thousands of years ago, they linked up with The Needles on the Isle of Wight.

Swanage holiday cottages

Lulworth Cove, Dorset – a picture-postcard paradise

‘A sense of calm washed through me that I hadn’t felt since watching the peregrine on Pencarrow Head and I fell into a long, restful sleep for the first time in weeks.’

In The Salt Path book, Raynor and Moth appreciate the muted hues of the sunset at Lulworth Cove, and camped beyond Durdle Door, near Swyre Head.

The iconic arch of Durdle Door and the near-perfect curve of Lulworth Cove have enchanted many a visitor. It’s understandably one of the most-walked stretches of the South West Coast Path. Here, the unique geology of the Jurassic Coast, paired with erosion, has resulted in intriguing formations seen today.

Lulworth holiday cottages

Chesil Beach, Dorset – a surreal landscape

‘We walked on quietly together, through the syrupy air of the perfectly still evening. The sun was setting, lighting the sky in late July with gentle southern colour.’ 

In The Salt Path book, Raynor and Moth decide to take the walk along vast Chesil Beach slowly. They find the sight of a flock of hundreds of swans at Abbotsbury surreal, and bumping into Julie and David, who they’d befriended on other sections of the path, was even more of a surprise.

Chesil Beach is an astounding, 18-mile-long shingle barrier, where the sea and sky are vast, and wildlife abounds in the brackish Fleet Lagoon behind the beach. During World War II, the bouncing bomb was tested here.

Chesil Beach holiday cottages

Bigbury-on-Sea, Devon – perfect for a swim

‘We swam in circles, floating on the gentle waves until all we smelt of was ozone and salt. Our filthy clothes soaked in a rock pool while we dried in the sun.’

The weary travellers leave Dorset and make their way down the coast of Devon, ruing the lack of open space to pitch their tent, and skipping much of Torbay by bus to pick up the South West Coast Path again in Brixham.

In Bigbury-on-Sea, they enjoy a swim in the sea to cool down and wash away the dirt of the journey before pressing onwards as the heat of the summer day dissipated.

Bigbury-on-Sea is a popular spot for a day at the beach. Its beach tractor, which trundles through the sea over to Burgh Island when the sandy causeway disappears at high tide, is an iconic sight.

Bigbury-on-Sea holiday cottages

Stay with us on the South West coast

The Salt Path book has already inspired many people to pull on their walking boots and stride out along the South West Coast Path. With the film promising a backdrop of beautiful destinations too, it’s more tempting than ever to head to the South West for a holiday.

Our holiday cottages on the South West coast offer a comfortable base for adventures on the coast path. Tackle a different section each day and find your own connection with nature.

Coastal holiday cottages in the South West